Beaming to you from Sicily where I am celebrating my 61st birthday. I decided immersing myself in ancient ruins was appropriate. Now I am trudging up and down flower strew meadows in search of what could be described as some of Italy’s, no, in fact the world’s best Greek ruins!
Here are 5 of the best:
#1 Segesta, Western Sicily
Standing at the ruins of the town of Segesta with the 4th century BC Greek theatre at my feet looking across the valley to the temple, dating from the 5th century BC I am reminded of Wordsworth. Yes that Wordsworth! While no daffodils are in sight a sea of yellow wildflowers dancing in the breeze and a cloudless sky make his words apt.
The temple is so perfect. Though it was never finished (the columns are not fluted), it was also never destroyed. Today the walkway is lined with a few scrubby trees. No wonder the pilgrims still come, nowadays to view your splendours rather than to worship at your altar.
#2 Selinute, Castelvetrano
Oh glorious Selinute, you take my breath away. Founded in 650 BC, you’ve been wrecked by the Carthaginians, conquered by Rome and devastated by earthquakes in the middle ages, yet major pieces have somehow survived. The largest ruin, simply known as Temple C, has a solidary grandeur. While most of the building has long gone, 12 monolithic columns remain, showing just how big and powerful this temple would have once been when it was built in the 6th century BC. At Temple E it easy to imagine what a pleasure it would have been to live and worship here, even if its present state is mostly a controversial modern restoration. Aligned to the sun, the treasury stands at the rear of the temple where offerings were kept and Hera, on an altar, presiding over all. Under the quiet skies, amid lemony grey stones, in spaces between the great pillars I can feel the presence of something peaceful and beautiful.
#3 Valley of the Temples, Agrigento
My walking shoes certainly got a workout here at the ancient Greek city of Akragas, definitely among the best-preserved Greek ruins in the world. Dating from the 6th century BC, this site is enormous and includes not only Greek remains but a large section of Roman quarters (built in the 4th Century BC). The most fascinating and beautiful remains are Greek. Like the Temple of Concordia, one of the best preserved Greek Temples in the world. Dating from the 5th century, the temple was converted to a Christian basilica in 6th century and today is stunningly returned to her former Greek glory. The Temple of Juno, my personal favourite takes pride of place, high on a rocky ridge, hauntingly beautiful covered in almond trees, visible for miles around.
#4 Greek Theatre, Taormina
Here in Tarmonia’s Greek theatre I feel like a bird, all around me spectacular views of the sea and Mt Etna that fiery volcano that even now rumbles and smokes. Sitting in this classic ancient theatre, hewn out of the hillside above the town, I shiver as I imagine the wonderful plays and performances that must have been held here over the centuries. This is till living theatre playing host to some of the modern world’s greatest classical singers and musicians, no backdrop needed.
#5 Morgantina, Aidone
This is a desolate, wild and romantic place, far from the tourist track, in the rolling hills of central Sicily. The original settlement dates to the Bronze Age, and while never actually a Greek colony, by the 6th century there was a strong Greek presence and the site reveals valuable insights into life on the periphery of the Greek world. Today it’s a tumble of wild grasses and wildflowers with clearly visible imprints of a picture book agora, set in a dip between two hills and surrounded by colonnades, public buildings and a few fine private homes. There is also a beautiful theatre built in the 3rd century BC (and later altered by the Romans) with pretty views over the town. In the west of the city there is a remarkably well-preserved Hellenistic (3rd century BC?). The water supply system, underfloor heating, basins and pools are clearly visible, as well as traces of very elaborate decoration.
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