I have travelled well through Sicily, and I hope wisely. It’s inevitable, even on a two week itinerary something has to give, that you can’t see it all. I had the joy this time of experiencing all but the Northern coastline –and this was achieved with enough downtime to offset the driving, and truly experience the best this magical island has to offer.
What’s to love about Sicily: Sicily is a place that invites you to slow down – rush and you will miss the hidden beaches, or the little known ruin. Hurry and you will only experience towns full of tourists by day; stay, and you will see towns reclaimed by locals and experience the true intimacy of each place. Sicily is also addictive for anyone with a taste for sweeping olive strewn landscapes, starkly beautiful Greek temples and history that goes back 6,000 years.
Favourite hotel experience: This was undoubtable the few days I spent at Serenita, outside Noto, a restored farmhouse deep in the dreamy countryside, overlooking citrus groves and unspoiled landscape. Not only were the rooms, food and details perfect the place had soul, mostly because it was a labour of love for owners Graeme and Fiona. Serene by name and nature, this place not only elevated my mood but had me revelling in the beauty all around me. Not to mention the best massage, ever!
Favourite city: Palermo, like no other city, has taught me to leave my prejudices behind when I set out on any journey. I came expecting chaos, and found instead a captivating city with a cultural heritage second to none thanks to Sicily’s strategic position as the largest island in the Mediterranean attracting countless invaders and colonisers over centuries. And their legacy, an eclectic mix of architecture, from Norman castles, Baroque churches, Byzantium mosaics and wonderful archaeological museum filled with indescribable treasurers including the Rosetta Stone of Sicily, a stone slab carved with Egyptian hieroglyphics in 2700 BC and the elaborate cravings that once decorated the temples at Selinunte. In its heyday Palermo was regarded as one of the grandest and most important cities in the word, and it is easy to see why.
Favourite food experience: Oh this is tricky as there have been many, from simple Sicilian fair to delicious pastries like Maria Grammatico’s genovesi and Pasticceria Caprice’s cannoli filed with fresh ricotta. But the exquisite prawns from Noto’s Manna restaurant live longest in my memory. While Sicilian in heritage, there was a decidedly modern twist, a subtleness of flavour. The excellent multilingual waiters added to the whole exquisite dinning experience. And can I have a quick plug for the gelato. Originally imported by the Arabs, it is absolutely delicious. A mouthful of magical gelato – the essence of Sicily – proves la doce vita doesn’t come better than this.
Favourite experience: It’s been the simpler things I’ve loved best, getting lost in the maze of streets in the towns and villages, and somehow miraculously refinding my car when the time was right. I’ve loved snooping around the markets, with produce so fresh I came away itching to get into my kitchen and cook up a storm. It’s the resourcefulness of human nature I observed; from terraced farms in the rocky high country through to the clever way housewives hang out their washing from their apartment windows and somehow avoid the dust and traffic. It’s the small gestures that I also treasure, people that went out of their way to show me a particular view, take me back to the main street when I was lost, or simply share a laugh with me even though neither of us could speak each other’s language. That for me is the joy of travelling.
Greatest surprise: That has to be the road system, it is simply amazing, fast and well-maintained. Yes, there have been a few scary moments like the first few times I drove on flyovers, four stories high over the valleys below, or when I drove up to Erice, 950 metres above sea level on a road cut into the sheer cliff face. The greatest pleasure is experienced in the country lanes and byways, a sea of yellow, red, pink and white wildflowers line the road and all around are olive, orange and lemon orchards – and surprisingly …. prickly pear orchards. What could anyone do with prickly pear? – Believe it or not, the fruit is a delegacy here in Sicily – and is eaten fresh, mash into marmalade and or drunk in liqueur.
If this sounds like somewhere you’d like to visit, please contact me on anthea@travelyourway.com.au to learn more and set up your Sicilian adventure.
